Last
December, Nidhi Tiwari made headlines when she drove 23,800 km from
Delhi to London in 97 days in an all-woman expedition with her friends.
This year, she's set to make news again with another extreme expedition.
Tiwari
has just completed a 5,000 km road trip in Siberia during the peak of
the region's infamously harsh winter. She is the first Indian to drive
to Oymyakon, considered to be the coldest permanently inhabited place on
earth. "I have an innate need to put myself out there and test my
limits," Tewari told HuffPost India during her drive. "So after Delhi to London, it had to be a bigger challenge."
The
route she chose was a loop from Yakutsk, the world's coldest major
city, to the port town of Magadan and back. The 13-day solo trip took
Tiwari through the Siberian wilderness, with temperatures as low as
minus 59 degree celsius and on roads that are built on permafrost and
are notoriously difficult to drive on. The highlight of the trip was
Oymyakon, also known as the Pole of Cold.
The
transcontinental Delhi-London trip set the stage for this extreme
overland expedition, which she describes as her most challenging one
till date. "Last year, the extreme factor came in the form of distance
and sheer scale," Tiwari added. "This one is much more technically and
physically intense. The extreme part comes in terms of the weather and
the remote landscape."
"I have an innate need to put myself out there and test my limits."
Tiwari had no reference points for Siberia's harsh terrain
in India, but drove in high-altitude areas in 2016 to build up her
stamina at the wheel, and learn more about her vehicle, the Toyota Land
Cruiser. "It was the most intense trip I have undertaken though it was
short because of the uncertainty," Tiwari said. "It is so easy to vanish
off the face of the earth in such an area."
Each day had to be meticulously planned, with Tiwari
figuring out details of fuel stations, food and accommodation. She drove
for nearly 10-12 hours a day, often in darkness, since the region only
gets three hours of daylight in winter. She survived on raw and frozen
meat, spending most of her time in the heated vehicle to protect herself
from the chill outside.
The trip, which cost between ₹8 and ₹10
lakh, was organised as an educational expedition about this remote
region's bitterly cold climate and terrain, in partnership with 15
schools in India. Tiwari has also been interacting with the students of
these schools who have been following her journey closely.
"You see the mettle that you are made of. These are journeys within more than outside."
Despite the bitter cold, Tiwari experienced some
surreal moments, such as driving on an icy road at night amid a quiet,
mild snowfall. "The sheer landscape -- fresh, white and undisturbed,"
Tiwari said. "It felt like it was just me, the vehicle and the road.
When you travel to these corners of the world, you realise the struggles
people undertake and become grateful for what you have."
Tiwari
says her expeditions are as much about self-discovery as adventure.
"This expedition has been an emotional potboiler," she said. "You see
the mettle that you are made of. These are journeys within more than
outside."
Despite
the extreme nature of the drive, Tiwari chose to go solo. "I tend to
undertake extreme expeditions, which are hugely challenging physically
and emotionally." Tiwari said. "My focus is to typically complete the
task at hand. I feel unless the other person or people are extremely in
sync or weathered like you, it becomes very difficult and I end up
spending more energy handling the team than focusing on the task at
hand."
The
35-year-old took to adventure at an early age, encouraged by her mother
to go on hikes and treks and become more independent. She went on her
first Himalayan hike in Bhutan at the age of 11 and learnt driving at
22. "I had been an adventure trip leader, and used to the outdoors since
I was very young," Tewari said. "So pushing the boundaries both within
and outside is something that came naturally to me."
"I have lived and always believed that women should not be confined to boundaries that they themselves set or that society sets for them."
She
didn't give up on her love of the outdoors, even after marriage and two
children. After she had her first son in Ladakh, she continued hiking,
carrying him in a carrier. "However, when the second one came along, I
had to take both of them," Tiwari said. "Leaving them was not an
option." In 2006, she assembled a second-hand jeep with the help of a
friend, and started taking off-road trips on weekends, driving on rough
terrain to test the vehicle and herself as a driver. "I now know how
machines work and that gives me the confidence to undertake these
extreme drives," she explained.
Though
she is supported by her two sons and her husband, who she met at an
outdoor activity event, Tiwari initially had a hard time getting her
parents to accept her inclinations. "My parents struggled to make sense
of my interests and passion when I was growing up," Tiwari said. "It was
a tumultuous time and then they were proud. I think my family is still
trying to figure out my DNA."
Her
first long-expedition happened in 2007, when she drove from Bangalore
to Ladakh. After the Delhi to London trip last year, Tiwari channelled
her vision to start Women Beyond Boundaries, an organisation that offers
extreme overland journeys, especially for women. "I have lived and
always believed that women should not be confined to boundaries that
they themselves set or that society sets for them," Tiwari said.
"The stereotype exists everywhere. Women worldwide are considered to be bad drivers. What changes is the degree and intensity of disbelief."
Despite
her extreme adventures, Tiwari says she has never been afraid. "I have
never felt fear. I have done solo hiking and travel for an eternity. At
the end of the day, you are scared if you are uncertain. If you are sure
of your planning, food and logistics there is no fear. As far as safety
is concerned, anything can happen to anybody. It is about common sense,
presence of mind and working knowledge."
Yet,
Tiwari's travels have made her acutely aware of the widespread bias
against women drivers. "The stereotype exists everywhere. Women
worldwide are considered to be bad drivers. What changes is the degree
and intensity of disbelief," Tiwari said. "On the highway, you find very
few women drivers. Like I say, driving is a skill and is
gender-neutral. The more you practice, the better you get."
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